Flush the AC condensate line
Annual · typically May
Why it matters
Every hour your AC runs, it condenses water — steadily through the cooling season. Even a moderate summer keeps that pipe wet enough for algae to build a plug over a few seasons.
Where the water goes when the line plugs is the whole story: into the drain pan, then over its edge, then into whatever's under the air handler — attic insulation and the ceiling below it, or a closet floor.
What skipping it costs
$500–$4,000
Your AC pulls gallons of water out of the air every summer day, and it all leaves through one skinny pipe. When algae plugs it, the drain pan overflows — and if the air handler lives in the attic, the first symptom is a brown stain spreading across the ceiling below. Drywall, insulation, and paint later, a cup of vinegar looks pretty good.
Two ways to get it done
Do it yourself
You'll need: Flashlight, Wet/dry vac (for a stubborn clog), 1 cup distilled white vinegar.
- Find the condensate access — a T-fitting with a removable cap on the PVC line near the indoor unit (air handler or furnace coil).
- Pull the cap, look in with the flashlight. Slime = normal. That's what we're here for.
- Pour in about a cup of white vinegar, slowly. Recap. Done. It kills the algae and keeps the line clear — repeat mid-summer if your system runs hard.
- Confirm the line drips outside on a cooling day: find the little PVC stub near the outdoor unit or an exterior wall. Dripping = flowing. Bone dry on a humid 90° day = suspicious.
- Already clogged (pan holding water, or water where it shouldn't be)? Kill the system, then pull the clog from the OUTSIDE end with a wet/dry vac sealed over the exit stub with a rag. Thirty seconds of suction beats pushing the plug deeper.
- If your air handler is above living space, check for a float switch in the pan (a little device with a wire). No switch? Put that on the list for your next HVAC visit — it shuts the system down before the pan overflows.
Hire it out
$85–$175National fair range — local labor moves this number.
A standalone condensate clearing runs $85–$175, but honestly this rides along free-to-cheap with your spring cooling checkup — just make them show you the line flowing before they leave, and test the float switch if you have one.
The one legitimate add-on: a float switch install if you don't have one over living space, usually $75–$150 with parts. Take that deal. Skip the treatment-tablet subscriptions and the UV-light upsell — vinegar is the subscription, and it costs three dollars a year.
Ask the tech
- Did you clear the line all the way to the exit, or just treat the trap?
- Is there a float switch on the pan, and did you test that it actually shuts the system off?
- Where does my condensate line terminate outside? Show me, so I can watch it drip in summer.
Red flags you're being upsold
- A 'condensate treatment plan' subscription. It's a cup of vinegar. You pour it. That's the plan.
- Mold-remediation language over a routine algae clog — slime in a drain line is Tuesday, not a hazmat event.
- A quoted UV light system ($600–$1,200) as the 'fix' for a clogged line. UV lights have niche uses; unclogging a drain isn't one.
The call
DIY this one — it's pouring vinegar into a pipe once a year. If your air handler is in the attic, also make sure there's a working float switch; that's the $40 part that makes this failure boring instead of expensive.