The House Year

Safety

Clean out the dryer vent

Annual · typically January–February

Why it matters

The lint screen catches maybe 70% of what comes off your clothes. The rest goes down the duct, and it builds until the airflow chokes. Two signals you're already there: loads taking noticeably longer than they used to, and the top of the dryer running hot to the touch.

January is the right slot: winter loads are heavier, the dryer's working hardest, and it pairs with the once-a-year habit of pulling the machine out anyway.

What skipping it costs

$200–$15,000

Lint is kindling, and a dryer pushes hot air through a tube packed with it. U.S. fire departments respond to around 13,000 dryer fires a year, and nearly every one traces to a vent that hadn't been cleaned. The cheap version of neglect is a dryer that takes two cycles per load — about $200 a year in wasted electricity. The expensive version starts the laundry room on fire.

Two ways to get it done

Do it yourself

~60 min · difficulty 2 of 5

You'll need: Dryer vent brush kit (~$25, flexible rods that chuck into a drill), Vacuum, Screwdriver for the clamp.

  1. Unplug the dryer (gas dryer: also close its gas valve) and pull it from the wall.
  2. Loosen the clamp, pull the duct off the dryer, and vacuum both the duct opening and the port on the machine.
  3. Run the brush kit through the duct from inside, feeding rod sections as you go, spinning with the drill on low. Push the mess toward the exterior.
  4. Outside: pop the vent hood cover, pull the lint pile, confirm the flap opens freely and isn't painted or caulked shut.
  5. Reconnect, push the dryer back (don't crush the duct — that kink becomes next year's clog), and run an empty cycle. You should feel strong, warm airflow at the exterior hood.
  6. While it's pulled out: if your duct is white vinyl or thin foil flex, replace it with semi-rigid or rigid metal. Vinyl duct on a dryer is a fire code violation for good reason.

Hire it out

$100–$190National fair range — local labor moves this number.

A pro cleaning runs $100–$190 and is money well spent for long runs, second-story laundry, or roof-exit vents — they bring longer rods and negative-pressure equipment that a $25 kit can't match. Expect them to clean from both ends and show you the pile. The upsell to watch: "mold remediation" in a dryer duct. Lint, dust, even a musty smell — sure. A remediation-priced mold job in a tube that runs hot and dry with every load — get the photos and a second opinion before believing it.

Ask the tech

  • Are you cleaning from both ends — inside and at the exterior hood?
  • How much lint came out? (A photo of the pile is a normal ask.)
  • Is my duct rigid metal or foil flex, and how long is the run?

Red flags you're being upsold

  • A 'mold in your dryer vent' remediation pitch — lint, yes; a mold crisis, almost never.
  • Quotes over $300 for a standard single-run cleaning with ground-level exterior access.
  • Anyone who won't replace a crushed foil-flex section for a reasonable parts-plus-labor price while they're right there.

The call

DIY it if your vent run is short and reachable; hire it for long runs, roof exits, or if the last cleaning was 'never.'

Your county's checklist, one email a month. What's due, what it should cost, and a heads-up when the weather changes the plan. No drip campaigns — we don't have the patience for them either.

This page is the national picture.

The app draws your house's actual year — your county's dates, your prices, and a heads-up when the weather moves the schedule.

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